The contrast of rich and poor, and on being the only white face in town
[This article was originally written for an e-newsletter sent out on 28 November 2005.]
One of the first things I noticed when I began to travel about Mexico City was ubiquity of 'mestizo' faces - ie people of American-Indian/Spanish descent. Being in a major capital city, I had expected to see at least some North Americans or Europeans, but this was not the case. Unlike the UK where there is a wide ethnic mix, I felt like I was encased in a world that does not seem to do business with the 'West'.
I am literally the only white face to be seen in the course of my everyday travels. For me, this must say something about the state of the economy here. It was very hard to aquire a work visa for entry into Mexico - it would only be granted if I could demonstrate that I was bringing X amount of money into the country each month. Additionally I am not allowed to take up paid employment here. With such strict requirements, it's no wonder there are very few people here from the 'developed' world.
The reason is of course the high level national poverty, and with thousands of Mexicans risking their lives to cross the US border every year to find work, there's no capacity to feed one extra mouth.
With all this said though, City life is suprisingly modern, developed and westernised, and there is a thriving middle-class. Apart from hints of traditional dress here and there, clothing in the city is much as we would wear in the UK. Near to my office there is a shopping mall that would be at home in any city in the UK.
However, what marks the city out is that alongside the well-dressed, shopping-oriented middle-class Mexican are streets teeming with sellers and beggers. There is also a bustling economy in the sale of pirated CDs and DVDs, as sellers will board the Metro (the underground) one after another trying to sell you a CD for 10 pesos (about 60p).
I see one man 'entertain' passengers by performing stunts, somersaulting his naked back into an open bag of broken glass in the standing area of the train, just to collect money for his family. Yet also in every modern-built Metro station you will see a mother with her child sitting on the steps; her hand stretched out asking for money.
I don't think my photos as yet show this side of Mexico - I feel quite vunerable getting my camera out in public, and keep my distance to take 'safe' photos. I am very pleased I bought a super-compact camera, because it's very easy to whop out, snap a picture, and then hide in your pocket again. But still, I would like to capture more of the character of this town, personalities and stories, so hopefully I will be able to do this more over time.
At it's most frenetic, I would perhaps liken the claustrophobia and pandemonium of city life here to the surreal or post-modern worlds presented in films like 'Bladerunner' or 'Brazil'.
Yet the two extremes of affluence and poverty sit side by side.
One thing which caught my attention that reflects this situation, is how all houses in the city have bars covering their windows. Barred windows are standard issue. Many buildings exist behind high security walls with barbed wire, broken glass or electric fenses. And these are just ordinary suburbs. In addition, in central commercial areas police carry firearms - and we're not just talking pistols here - we're talking pump-action shot guns. I have never seen more firearms except in the confines of a computer game.
The need for this level of security almost depresses me; I can't quite believe that everybody goes about their everyday lives as if this was normal. And yet, I pray for God's protection every day, and then go about my normal everyday life.
Mexico City however is thriving and wonderful, and every part of me loves being here, but the things that I see do make me appreciate and think more about the lifestyle we take for granted in the UK.
To see some general shot of the Mexico and my life here visit: www.flickr.com/photos/timthompson/sets/1398294/
posted by Tim Thompson | 12:36 AM
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